I could have gone to Gage & Tollner, the landmark Brooklyn eatery, before it joined Lutèce in the land of urban memories this past Valentine’s Day. I’m sorry I didn’t. It’s not in my usual price furrow, but any restaurant that can weather Brooklyn from 1879 on forward deserves special-occasion patronage once in a while. I’m not really a Lutèce kind of boy – I’m sure it was great, and I’ll never miss missing it – but Gage & Tollner goes onto the “shoulda” A-list right up there with Nicole from New Year’s 2003.
And it’s a sad Sign o’ the Times that what we’re going to get in its place is a T.G.I. Friday’s (thanks to Gothamist for bearing the bad news). Classy and reverent, right? Couldn’t someone have pulled out all the stops and maybe smacked a Sizzler in there, for a real fine dining experience?
The old Gage & Tollner web site has little to memorialize the passing, and none of the vows we’ve heard in the press to open in another location. Just this:
However, on Saturday February 14th, 2004, Gage & Tollner Restaurant has severed its last meal at the historical landmark location of 372 Fulton Street. It was with great disappointment that this institution has come to this historical end. We want to thank all of our loyal patron’s who have dined with us for all these years.
Severed? Patron’s? Historical end? Misplaced modifiers? Come on, the place deserves better. Or deserves to be better de-served.